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Inside Information

Tips to avoid getting caught – and some help if you do

Getting “caught inside” can be a frightening experience, even to the most experienced surfer.  “Caught inside” refers to the situation in which a surfer is caught in front of the wave break and trounced on in the “impact zone.”

Whereas the term “inside” refers to the optimum takeoff position next to a wave’s curl, “caught inside” refers to the position of being temporarily trapped in the narrow violent space between the wave breaks and the impact zone.

What makes this so dangerous is the cyclic effect of the water current sucking a surfer out and colliding with the force of the wave rearing up and pushing in.

Add rips, undertows and being exploded upon down into the impact zone and it becomes easy to understand the danger. 

Anyone, rather everyone who’s experienced this, will describe for you the immediate temptation to panic as this natural washing machine churns you, draws you into the face of the next detonation, drives you down to the bottom, then sucks you back up to do it all over again.

Imagine board and leash pulling you in one direction while the currents yank you ferociously in another - all the while giving you few intervals to take oxygen.

Not cool.

Getting caught inside is something that can (and does) happen to anyone regardless of experience, but inexperienced surfers are especially vulnerable to serious injury or even drowning.  Knowing how to reduce the chances of getting caught and what to do if it happens is essential knowledge to anyone who goes into the water.

So what can you do to increase your chances of getting out of serious trouble or even caught in the first place?

Tips on Getting Out of and Avoiding Trouble

1. Know the break. You can reduce your chances by thoroughly knowing the surf break.  Know where the reef, channel, and impact zone are.  Designate shore objects to align with these areas to more efficiently move out of danger’s way.  Sometimes you can’t tell which way is up much less try to spot a place in the water.  Seconds count and knowing your spots and the landmarks can help get you out of inevitable trouble.  You could say that knowing where to go is just as important as knowing where you shouldn't be.

2. Pay attention to the tides.  Tidal changes dramatically affect the power and location of the most dangerous areas.  Waves will break farther and closer to shore depending on the tidal flow, affecting set frequency, height, wave face, the bottom you'll be getting slammed on, and the overall ferocity of the experience.  For example, getting caught within a kelp forest or reef caves during 3-wave, double overhead barreling sets 20 seconds apart could be hazardous to your health.  Pay attention.  Pay attention.  Pay attention.

3. Choose the right break.  In the movie North Shore, Arizona wave pool champ Rick Cain jumps right into Pipeline despite Turtle’s wise, but ignored advice.  The road of a surfer means stepping into new challenges and breaks as a matter of growth.  That’s cool, but we’ll ask you to be smart about it.  Take on challenges that you can handle and know the break well before paddling out.  Even the most seasoned and talented veterans have to deal with getting out of trouble so be smart about what you jump into (so to speak).  There's no shame if you think the surf's too big.

4. Don’t panic.  In severe conditions, you may only get a couple of chances to grab air and panicking can sabotage your efforts to get to safety.  Not only can it throw your timing off when those precious moments do appear, but panicking will waste oxygen, burn much needed energy and seriously impair your decision-making.  Resist the temptation to freak out, roll with the wave as best you can, but get cognizant as soon as possible so you can best deal with the situation.

5. Find your board.  Remember, your board is a floatation device and the longer it’s flapping in the water, the more chance there is in being struck by it or worse, losing it.  Grab that leash and pull it towards you to get the board and look for an opportunity to get in (or just out of the impact zone) on you stomach.  Then lay on it and recover when you’re out of danger.

6. Yell for help. In truly desperate circumstances – especially for you newbies and kooks – don’t let pride get in the way of asking for help.  It’s always a better idea to take it on the ego then to wash up on shore two days later.

Finally, remember that getting caught inside is a inherent and inevitable risk when you surf.  The ocean is full of currents and the reason we have waves in the first place is due to the collision of these currents and land.  Like anything in life, being knowledgeable and prepared can take the anxiety out of most things.

Will you still get caught and freaked at times, sure, but we’d like you to live to tell about it.

If you have a good story about getting caught and some helpful tips that you’d like to share, send them in.

*The information provided herein is provided for the purposes of sharing individual experiences and IS NOT INTENDED TO BE INSTRUCTIONAL.  Consult your local surf professional or instructor for more information before venturing into the water.  Surfing is an inherently dangerous sport and prudent judgment should be used by those that challenge this danger.  Dahaole, its representatives, contributors and/or its associates are not liable for damages suffered by individuals relating to this or any other described surfing situation.